News 2016
Aktionen für 2016
Der Riley ist gut ins neue Jahr gekommen. Steht immer noch aufgebockt in der Garage.
Nachdem ich meinen Zeichenblock mal wieder entdeckt habe nachfolgend eine Zeichnung des Riley:
In 2016 sind ein paar Arbeiten zu erledigen, die eigentlich schon in 2015 erledigt werden sollten:
Habe immer noch vor mit dem Riley nach UK zu fahren, mal sehen ob dies in diesem Jahr klappen wird. Ansonsten stehen viele schöne Fahrten in der Pfalz an. Allerdings werde ich nicht im Mai an der Weinrally teilnehmen. Wir fahren lieber mit kleineren Gruppen durch die Pfalz.
Es ist Januar und es regnet. Habe gerade mal die Riley Unterlagen hervorgeholt und eine Zusammenstellung über alle verfügbaren Dokumente zur Historie durchgesehen.
Einen Überblick über Vorbesitzer, Zeit und gefahrene Meilen gibt die folgende Graphik:
Mitte März 2016
Leider ist es nach wie vor zu kalt um am Riley zu arbeiten, heute 14.3. waren es mal 10 Grad und ich mit dem Volvo unterwegs, damit wieder nichts mit Aktivitäten am Riley. Sowie es mal über 15 Grad sind, kann ich den Riley mal rausfahren und wieder aktivieren.
Mitte November 2016
Leider bin ich durch Krankheit seit März nicht weiter mit dem Riley unterwegs gewesen. Seit Juli darf ich wieder fahren. Haben mehrere Ausfahrten nach Speyer und in der Pfalz unternommen. Im Moment steht der Riley vorne in der Garage. Wir lassen eine Terrassenüberdachung bauen und brauchen freien Durchgang.
So sieht es im Moment aus, der Balkon ist abgebaut und die Überdachung wird im Moment gebaut.
Am 23.11 fahre ich nach Hannover und hole den Volvo 245 nach Hause, dann geht der Riley wieder in seinen Stammplatz zum Winterschlaf.
Noch immer hat der Riey 50 er Öl. Deshalb brauche ich gutes Wetter um ihn nochmal zu fahren. Habe gerade bei den Diamond Service Leuten auf der Homepage gestöbert und ein Video über die Fahrt mit einem Riley durch Monaco gefunden. Hier der Link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qu3VUsNB8IQ
Werde demnächst auch ein Video aufnehmen und einstellen. Im Moment freue ich mich auf den Volvo und die Fahrt von Hannover nach Maxdorf.
Habe noch einen Artikel über techn. Details gefunden:
Der Riley ist gut ins neue Jahr gekommen. Steht immer noch aufgebockt in der Garage.
Nachdem ich meinen Zeichenblock mal wieder entdeckt habe nachfolgend eine Zeichnung des Riley:
In 2016 sind ein paar Arbeiten zu erledigen, die eigentlich schon in 2015 erledigt werden sollten:
- Federn entrosten (einsprühen)
- Abschmieren (regelmäßig)
- Bremstrommeln neu lackieren (Beläge abschleifen/reinigen)
- Ersatzreifen prüfen lassen
- Magneto nachstellen (mehr Vorzündung)
 |
| Bild aus 2015 im Frühjahr nach erfolgter Magnet Reparatur |
Es ist Januar und es regnet. Habe gerade mal die Riley Unterlagen hervorgeholt und eine Zusammenstellung über alle verfügbaren Dokumente zur Historie durchgesehen.
| Datum | Milage | Action | Betrag | |
| 8. Januar 1931 | 0 | 1. Besitzer Miss Credd | ||
| 1. April 1982 | 56000 | Übernahme durch Mr Blick Salisbury SP55HA1 (nicht sauber dokumentiert) - wahrscheinlich max 2000 Meilen gefahren | ||
| 2. Januar 1992 | 58000 | Übernahme durch Mr. White - Hat viel in den Riley investiert - wahrscheinlich auch max. 2000 Meilen gefahren | ||
| 6.2.192 | 4 neue Excelsior Reifen | 355 | ||
| 18. März 1992 | Lackierung der Teile in blau | 116 | ||
| 14. Juli 1992 | Motorüberholung und Teile - Neue Kolben, Neue Lichtmaschine, Kopfdichtung | 1477 | ||
| 16. September 1992 | Neuer Auspuff | 105 | ||
| 3. März 1993 | Anzeige durch Orchid Cars mit 31000 Miles in der Anzeige (kann nicht stimmen, müssen 61000 sein) | |||
| 22. April 1993 | 60028 | MOT | ||
| 16. Juni 1993 | 60100 | Übernahme durch Mr. Landell - Kaufvertrag von Orchid Cars xxx Pfund | ||
| 4. Juni 1994 | 60380 | MOT | ||
| 27. Mai 1995 | 61224 | MOT | ||
| 8. Juni 1996 | 61851 | MOT | ||
| 24. Juni 1997 | 62946 | MOT | ||
| 23. Juni 1998 | 63683 | MOT | ||
| 20. Juli 1999 | 64184 | MOT | ||
| 6. Juni 2001 | 64360 | MOT | ||
| 27. September 2002 | 64445 | MOT | ||
| 1. Juli 2003 | 64900 | Übernahme durch Mr. Jones aus Hempnall NR15 2NU - hat ebensoviel investiert und viel für die Restauration getan | ||
| 28. August 2003 | Zubehör Dämpfer | 50 | ||
| 3. September 2003 | Neue Stoffdämpfer | 93 | ||
| 10. September 2004 | 65442 | MOT | ||
| 13. April 2004 | Neue Wasseranschlüsse oben und Seite | 90 | ||
| 17. April 2004 | Batterie, | 31 | ||
| 2. August 2004 | 66749 | 4 neue Excelsior Reifen | 136 | |
| 21. September 2004 | 66792 | MOT | ||
| 31. August 2004 | BHT Magneto Pinion | 36 | ||
| 11. Oktober 2004 | Ventile ersetzt und neue eingeschliffen | 138 | ||
| 20. Januar 2005 | Motor Halterung, Lampen Gummi, Kipphebel achsen, Druckprüfung Zylinderkopf | 70 | ||
| 12. September 2005 | 68171 | MOT | ||
| 1. Juni 2006 | Übernahme durch Mr. Thomas - kurze Episode um Geld zu verdienen "Verkauf für 21,5 € + 2,5 € = 13000 Pfund + 1700 Ersatzteile | |||
| 14. Oktober 2006 | Kaufvertrag von Mr. Thomas über xxx Pfund | |||
| 18. Juli 2006 | Innenverkleidungsstoff - Fussbodenstoff von Coverdale WN2 4HS | 45 | ||
| 1. August 2006 | Übernahme durch Mr. Watkins - Auch viel in den Erhalt des Riley investiert | |||
| 9. September 2006 | 69207 | MOT | ||
| 26. Juli 2007 | Neue Bremsbeläge Vorne | 72 | ||
| 12. März 2008 | 70803 | MOT, neue Batterie | ||
| 4. März 2009 | 73430 | MOT | ||
| 24. Februar 2010 | 2 neue Reifen | 106 | ||
| 2. März 2010 | 75231 | MOT | ||
| 25. November 2010 | Kupplung überholt, Neue Kolben, Kopfdichtung, Kopf und Block geschliffen - Motorüberholung | 2000 | ||
| 20. August 2011 | Verkauf in Versteigerung für xxx Pfund | |||
| 13. Dezember 2011 | 75409 | MOT | ||
| 13. Dezember 2011 | Übernahme durch W. Knopf | |||
| 12. April 2012 | 75550 | Ölwechsel SAE 50 , Filter gereinigt | ||
| 15. November 2012 | 75600 | Dekra Bewertung über xxx € | ||
| 5. Dezember 2012 | 76400 | Motor gereinigt, Kerzen gereinigt, Bremsbeläge entgratet, Batterie neu | 100 | |
| 6. Dezember 2013 | 78200 | Problem mit Ölverlust an Drucksensor Ausgang, Ölwanne abgenommen, gereinigt, Verschraubung neu abgedichtet und Wanne neu abgedichtet | ||
| 3. März 2014 | 78312 | Ölwechsel auf SAE 30 | ||
| 5. Dezember 2014 | Dichtung an Ölpumpe provisorisch abgedichtet | |||
| 3. April 2015 | 79150 | Magnet defekt, ausgebaut, überholen lassen und neu eingebaut inkl. Probelauf | 280 | |
| 5. November 2015 | 79422 | Vollgetankt, und winterfest gemacht, Frostschutz -37 Grad. Batterie im keller gelagert | ||
| 11. Januar 2016 | 79422 | Historie überarbeitet und in Block eingestellt. |
Einen Überblick über Vorbesitzer, Zeit und gefahrene Meilen gibt die folgende Graphik:
 | |||
| Die Historie auf einen Blick |
Leider ist es nach wie vor zu kalt um am Riley zu arbeiten, heute 14.3. waren es mal 10 Grad und ich mit dem Volvo unterwegs, damit wieder nichts mit Aktivitäten am Riley. Sowie es mal über 15 Grad sind, kann ich den Riley mal rausfahren und wieder aktivieren.
Mitte November 2016
Leider bin ich durch Krankheit seit März nicht weiter mit dem Riley unterwegs gewesen. Seit Juli darf ich wieder fahren. Haben mehrere Ausfahrten nach Speyer und in der Pfalz unternommen. Im Moment steht der Riley vorne in der Garage. Wir lassen eine Terrassenüberdachung bauen und brauchen freien Durchgang.
So sieht es im Moment aus, der Balkon ist abgebaut und die Überdachung wird im Moment gebaut.
Am 23.11 fahre ich nach Hannover und hole den Volvo 245 nach Hause, dann geht der Riley wieder in seinen Stammplatz zum Winterschlaf.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qu3VUsNB8IQ
Werde demnächst auch ein Video aufnehmen und einstellen. Im Moment freue ich mich auf den Volvo und die Fahrt von Hannover nach Maxdorf.
Habe noch einen Artikel über techn. Details gefunden:
THE 1934/5 RILEY NINE " MONACO "
THE 1934/5 RILEY NINE " MONACO "
Some Hints and Tips Relating
to a Popular Model THE numerous remiests for information On pre-war ears
has prompted Inc to record lily experienees of a 19:S5 Riley Niue
"Monaco' saloon for the benefit of new owners and those unable to obtain
a handbook. Although similarly placed I was fortunate in being able to
borrow one and make notes of the more important subjects, which have
been supplemented as time passed with information obtained from various
sourees and from personal experience. Iii
to the 1935 model, the following notes are applicable to the 1034 Riley Nine " Monaco,'' as with few exceptions the chassis and engine are identical.
My car is fitted with a " Special Series " engine which is a four-cylinder unit with abore of 60.3 tam. and a stroke of 95.2 mm., giving a total capacity of 1,087 e.e. Safe limits when the engine was new were given as 13.4 m.p.h. in first gear or 3,500 r.p.m., 22.5 m.p.h. in second gear, or 3,750 r.p.m., 41.0 m.p.h. in third gear, or 4,000 r.p.m., and 65 m.p.h. in top or 4,370 r.p.m. The twin camshafts must be separately timed, the inlet valve opening at. T.D.C. and closing at. 50 degrees after 11.D.C., and the exhaust valve closing at 30 degrees after T.D.C., and opening at 55 degrees before 11.1).C. The clearances between rocker and valve stein are : .002 in. inlet and .003 in. exhaust with the engine hot.. The firing order is 1-2-4-3. Adjustment of the valve tappet rockers is carried out. With a screwdriver and a i in. spanner. Care should be taken to tighten the locking nut after each adjustment, avoiding too much force for fear of splitting the rocker.
The topping up and tilling of the sump is through the rocker boxes .after removing the four covers. It is advisab!e to pour the oil through each box alternatively so that all parts of the valve gear obtain a supply of fresh oil. Failure to do this may result in the rockers squeaking. Severe squeaking which cannot be cured in this way is usually caused by a choke in the external pipes which feed oil from the sump. It is a simple matter to disconnect these pipes and clear them with it suitable length of wire.
The distributor is timed by turning the engine with No. 1 plug out, until the piston is on T.D.C. Of the firing stroke. Set the distributor linger opposite No. 1 lead, then turn it in a clockwise direction until the cam is felt against, the contact breaker lever. Then push the distributor straight; in, allowing its gear to mesh with the nearest tooth on the camshaft pinion. The distributor head turns in a clockwise direction to retard and eke Versa for advance. The contact breaker points should be set to open at T.D.C. with full retard with a gap of .012 in. Decarbonising is straightforward. The rocker boxes must be removed to gain access to the cylinder head nuts and it is important to note that when removing the head, only the rubber water hose should be diseonnetted and not the F. E. RICKETTS 4.11MIIMINISOSIIIMMID*1111111111111111111431111111111111110411111An* water outlet elbow which is held in position by a yoke-bolt. This should not be removed, as after the nut, above the pipe is unscrewed there is nothing to prevent the yoke dropping into the water chamber. It is also important, to make sure that the two tappet springs, situated on either side of the block are in position before the head is replaced. The order of slackening and tightening the cylinder head nuts is :-- 7 5 1 :1 9 9 4 4 4 9 4 9 9 4 4 10 4 2 6 8 The plugs reconunended by the makers for this engine are Champion 16 or 17, K.L.G. KS 5 or M 80 Or Lodge CB 3 or
11 2. I have obtained good results from a set of Champion 17 with a gap of .022 in. but am very particular as to cleanliness and clean them at fairly frequent intervals. The electrical system is 12 volt, provided front two 6-volt batteries carried under the rear seats. A third adjustable brush is fitted in the dynamo which LS secured to the timing case at tlw front of the engine by three nuts. The charge fate is increased by moving the brush in the direction taken by the commutator and decreased by moving it in the opposite direction. A worn dog at the end of the
dynamo sets up a noise which is often mistaken for worn timing wheels. Removal of' Lite three nuts and the dynamo before starting up the engine (in the garage of course) will soon settle this question.
The self starter is bolted to the near side of the crankcase and is also easily removed if necessary. if the starter should stick in engagement it can be freed by turning the square end of the shaft in front of the starter with a spanner using a rocking motion.
It is very necessary, partieularly at the present time, to see that. the carburetters are properly adjusted and kept clean. Mine are Solex Type 131", and for the sum of 9d. Solex, Ltd., will supply an Instruction Booklet which gives all the information necessary to assist efficient maintenance and obtain more m.p.g.
This car is fitted with an Autovae and I have found it to be thoroughly reliable and require very little attention. Here again a handbook giving full details of maintenance can be obtained free upon request to The Autovac Manufacturing Co., Ltd., Stockport.
The correct oil pressure is 40-50 lb./sq. in. with the engine hot. Pressure should not fall below 40 lb./sq. in. at a speed of .40 m.p.h. in top gear at the normal working temperature. Pressures below and above this figure when the engine is ticking over and when it is started from cold are normal. It is very important that the owner takes a frequent look at the oil pressure gauge when the car is in use, as in the event of the failure of some component the pressure will fall suddenly. The most likely cause of falling pressure is failure of the oil-pressure release valve. This is situated on the off side of the crankcase just above the sump drain plug. The plunger may have worn, or the spring become weak or a particle of -dirt become inserted between the valve and its seating, thus preventing its closing. To examine the valve the lock-nut should be unscrewed and the adjusting screw withdrawn, when the spring and plunger can be removed. Any signs of bright spots on the plunger indicate the possible presence of dirt. The spring should be tested for weakness. On one occasion I noticed that pressure had risen to 80 lb./ sq. in. and discovered on investigation that the lock-nut had worked loose, allowing the adjusting screw to move and it is, therefore, advisable to check this in the event of a sudden change of pressure. Turning the adjusting screw to the right increases the pressure and Dice versa. I have purposely omitted any previous reference to the petrol consumption as it is so bound up with the lubrication of the engine, gearbox and back axle. When I purchased the car it had only just been re-bored and had run under 50 miles since that operation. The crankshaft had been reground and the engine generally overhauled and brought back to a good condition. Consequently it was on the tight side and petrol consumption was 29 m.p.g. When the engine had been well run-in I carried out a petrol cheek but could not better 81 m.p.g. under any conditions. It was appreciated that the car was heavy for a Nine and with twin carburetters I decided that I must be satisfied with this figure. I also discovered that the engine was very prone to condensation (quite ustud with these early models. I believe). Half an egg cup
full of water could be drained from the sump every week if I liked to take the trouble, but the odd thing about it was that if I left this operation for several weeks the quantity removed was still the same. I dismissed this with the Riley specialist from whom I had bought the car, but he told me not to worry as it had no ill-effects. However, I was not happy to leave it like this and decided to add Redex to the engine oil to offset any ill-effects front the addition of the water. After doing this I thought no more about it and it was not until some time later when the petrol tank overflowed during the taking on of a small quantity that I discovered that the consumption had decreased. Accordingly I carried out a check which disclosed between 33 and 34 m.p.g. I then remembered that a lower petrol consumption was one of the claims made on behalf of Redex and realised that I had reaptal this benefit unexpectedly. I slionlil mention at this point that My petrol gauge does not work and I have to keep a record of petrol purchases and estimate the consumption from periodical checks. Following this discovery I decided to add Redex to the gearbox and back axle when they became due for a drain and refill. Eventually this was done and at about the same time I fitted a Vokes Distribution Rectifier to each carburetter. After a suitable interval 1 made another check which showed a figure of just over 36 m.p.g. I can, therefore, highly recommend all owners to use Redex in the correct proportions which are Sump—one part Redex to three parts oil ; gearboxand back axle--one part Redex to five parts oil. The makers of Redex also recommend using it in the petrol at the rate of one ounce to two gallons, but I have not done so, having always used Duckham's " Adcoids." have not troubled to separately test the rectifier and Redex, but if any owner is prepared to adopt both these methods of increasing m.p.g., I suggest the Redex conversion first, followed by a test, and then the fitting of a rectifier, or two of course if the engine has two carburetters, followed by a further test. Before leaving lubrication I must refer to the suspension. Greasing of the spring shackles, of course, is dealt with during the periodical maintenance, but I refer now to the springs. The suspension on the early Rileys is fairly harsh, and unlessthe springs are kept well oiled a very hard ride will result with much body shaking. A considerable amount of mud and water is thrown up on to the rear springs and I recommend the fitting of gaiters. The front springs do net suffer in this way and gaiters are not necessary and a good painting of old engine oil will last a reasonable time. Before fitting the gaiters I well scrubbed the springs using an old tooth brush and paraffin, drying them with newspaper. I then sprayed them with penetrating oil, followed by painting with old engine oil. Finally they were liberally coated with grease. This treatment of both front and rear springs has proved very ,satisfactory. The car feels nicely flexible on uneven surfaces and I think I have obtained as good a ride as is possible on a Riley of this year. The suspension will be further improved if the spring clips are kept tight
As already mentioned I have an Armstrong preselector gearbox and owners who like doing their Own repairs may wonder whether they can carry out any adjusnlien Is which may become necessary front time to time. This is possible and well within the capacity of the type of owner likely to tackle such work. It is not possible here to set out the instructions, but were it so I could not hope to set out half as well as Riley Motors, Ltd., do in an illustrated leaflet which I obtained free from their Service Department at Abingdon-on-Thames, and I hope they will not mind may mentioning this fact and will be able to supply any reader who might write for a copy. At thus point 1 should like to express my thanks to the Service Department for the help they have given to Inc in the past. I have never hesitated to write to them on any problem connected with the car and I have always found them willing and anxious to help.
to the 1935 model, the following notes are applicable to the 1034 Riley Nine " Monaco,'' as with few exceptions the chassis and engine are identical.
My car is fitted with a " Special Series " engine which is a four-cylinder unit with abore of 60.3 tam. and a stroke of 95.2 mm., giving a total capacity of 1,087 e.e. Safe limits when the engine was new were given as 13.4 m.p.h. in first gear or 3,500 r.p.m., 22.5 m.p.h. in second gear, or 3,750 r.p.m., 41.0 m.p.h. in third gear, or 4,000 r.p.m., and 65 m.p.h. in top or 4,370 r.p.m. The twin camshafts must be separately timed, the inlet valve opening at. T.D.C. and closing at. 50 degrees after 11.D.C., and the exhaust valve closing at 30 degrees after T.D.C., and opening at 55 degrees before 11.1).C. The clearances between rocker and valve stein are : .002 in. inlet and .003 in. exhaust with the engine hot.. The firing order is 1-2-4-3. Adjustment of the valve tappet rockers is carried out. With a screwdriver and a i in. spanner. Care should be taken to tighten the locking nut after each adjustment, avoiding too much force for fear of splitting the rocker.
The topping up and tilling of the sump is through the rocker boxes .after removing the four covers. It is advisab!e to pour the oil through each box alternatively so that all parts of the valve gear obtain a supply of fresh oil. Failure to do this may result in the rockers squeaking. Severe squeaking which cannot be cured in this way is usually caused by a choke in the external pipes which feed oil from the sump. It is a simple matter to disconnect these pipes and clear them with it suitable length of wire.
The distributor is timed by turning the engine with No. 1 plug out, until the piston is on T.D.C. Of the firing stroke. Set the distributor linger opposite No. 1 lead, then turn it in a clockwise direction until the cam is felt against, the contact breaker lever. Then push the distributor straight; in, allowing its gear to mesh with the nearest tooth on the camshaft pinion. The distributor head turns in a clockwise direction to retard and eke Versa for advance. The contact breaker points should be set to open at T.D.C. with full retard with a gap of .012 in. Decarbonising is straightforward. The rocker boxes must be removed to gain access to the cylinder head nuts and it is important to note that when removing the head, only the rubber water hose should be diseonnetted and not the F. E. RICKETTS 4.11MIIMINISOSIIIMMID*1111111111111111111431111111111111110411111An* water outlet elbow which is held in position by a yoke-bolt. This should not be removed, as after the nut, above the pipe is unscrewed there is nothing to prevent the yoke dropping into the water chamber. It is also important, to make sure that the two tappet springs, situated on either side of the block are in position before the head is replaced. The order of slackening and tightening the cylinder head nuts is :-- 7 5 1 :1 9 9 4 4 4 9 4 9 9 4 4 10 4 2 6 8 The plugs reconunended by the makers for this engine are Champion 16 or 17, K.L.G. KS 5 or M 80 Or Lodge CB 3 or
11 2. I have obtained good results from a set of Champion 17 with a gap of .022 in. but am very particular as to cleanliness and clean them at fairly frequent intervals. The electrical system is 12 volt, provided front two 6-volt batteries carried under the rear seats. A third adjustable brush is fitted in the dynamo which LS secured to the timing case at tlw front of the engine by three nuts. The charge fate is increased by moving the brush in the direction taken by the commutator and decreased by moving it in the opposite direction. A worn dog at the end of the
dynamo sets up a noise which is often mistaken for worn timing wheels. Removal of' Lite three nuts and the dynamo before starting up the engine (in the garage of course) will soon settle this question.
The self starter is bolted to the near side of the crankcase and is also easily removed if necessary. if the starter should stick in engagement it can be freed by turning the square end of the shaft in front of the starter with a spanner using a rocking motion.
It is very necessary, partieularly at the present time, to see that. the carburetters are properly adjusted and kept clean. Mine are Solex Type 131", and for the sum of 9d. Solex, Ltd., will supply an Instruction Booklet which gives all the information necessary to assist efficient maintenance and obtain more m.p.g.
This car is fitted with an Autovae and I have found it to be thoroughly reliable and require very little attention. Here again a handbook giving full details of maintenance can be obtained free upon request to The Autovac Manufacturing Co., Ltd., Stockport.
A final word on the engine for enthusiastic
owners. who would liketo fit a water thermometer. The normal engine
operating temperature is 75/85 Centigrade. These engines tend to run too
cool in the winter although they are not. fitted with a fan, and, to
obtain a good performance it is advisable to blank off half the
radiator. Ltibrication, as always, is a very important stiltject.
Regular greasing and draining of the sump, gearbox and back axle pays
dividends. A very useful
chart, which is an essential requirement if the owner intends to
carry out his own maintenance, can be obtained free from Messrs. C. C.
Wakefield & Co., Ltd. The sump holds between 6 and 7 pints and
should be removed every 5,000 miles to clean the filter. My tar, which
is fitted with an Armstrong preselector gearbox, uses engine oil and has
a capacity of 5 pints. The rear axle requires 3.k. pints of gear oil
and when topping up it is 'a recommendation of the Makers that both the
oil in the axle and the oil being inserted should be warm. When I
purchased the car it was fitted with a " One-shot Lubrication " system,
but on examination I discovered that certain pipes were fractured and
110t supplying oil to vital places ; the universal joint being one. I,
therefore, promptly removed the whole system and fitted grease nipples.
It makes the work of maintenance a trifle harder, hut I de know that the
grease is getting where it is needed.The correct oil pressure is 40-50 lb./sq. in. with the engine hot. Pressure should not fall below 40 lb./sq. in. at a speed of .40 m.p.h. in top gear at the normal working temperature. Pressures below and above this figure when the engine is ticking over and when it is started from cold are normal. It is very important that the owner takes a frequent look at the oil pressure gauge when the car is in use, as in the event of the failure of some component the pressure will fall suddenly. The most likely cause of falling pressure is failure of the oil-pressure release valve. This is situated on the off side of the crankcase just above the sump drain plug. The plunger may have worn, or the spring become weak or a particle of -dirt become inserted between the valve and its seating, thus preventing its closing. To examine the valve the lock-nut should be unscrewed and the adjusting screw withdrawn, when the spring and plunger can be removed. Any signs of bright spots on the plunger indicate the possible presence of dirt. The spring should be tested for weakness. On one occasion I noticed that pressure had risen to 80 lb./ sq. in. and discovered on investigation that the lock-nut had worked loose, allowing the adjusting screw to move and it is, therefore, advisable to check this in the event of a sudden change of pressure. Turning the adjusting screw to the right increases the pressure and Dice versa. I have purposely omitted any previous reference to the petrol consumption as it is so bound up with the lubrication of the engine, gearbox and back axle. When I purchased the car it had only just been re-bored and had run under 50 miles since that operation. The crankshaft had been reground and the engine generally overhauled and brought back to a good condition. Consequently it was on the tight side and petrol consumption was 29 m.p.g. When the engine had been well run-in I carried out a petrol cheek but could not better 81 m.p.g. under any conditions. It was appreciated that the car was heavy for a Nine and with twin carburetters I decided that I must be satisfied with this figure. I also discovered that the engine was very prone to condensation (quite ustud with these early models. I believe). Half an egg cup
full of water could be drained from the sump every week if I liked to take the trouble, but the odd thing about it was that if I left this operation for several weeks the quantity removed was still the same. I dismissed this with the Riley specialist from whom I had bought the car, but he told me not to worry as it had no ill-effects. However, I was not happy to leave it like this and decided to add Redex to the engine oil to offset any ill-effects front the addition of the water. After doing this I thought no more about it and it was not until some time later when the petrol tank overflowed during the taking on of a small quantity that I discovered that the consumption had decreased. Accordingly I carried out a check which disclosed between 33 and 34 m.p.g. I then remembered that a lower petrol consumption was one of the claims made on behalf of Redex and realised that I had reaptal this benefit unexpectedly. I slionlil mention at this point that My petrol gauge does not work and I have to keep a record of petrol purchases and estimate the consumption from periodical checks. Following this discovery I decided to add Redex to the gearbox and back axle when they became due for a drain and refill. Eventually this was done and at about the same time I fitted a Vokes Distribution Rectifier to each carburetter. After a suitable interval 1 made another check which showed a figure of just over 36 m.p.g. I can, therefore, highly recommend all owners to use Redex in the correct proportions which are Sump—one part Redex to three parts oil ; gearboxand back axle--one part Redex to five parts oil. The makers of Redex also recommend using it in the petrol at the rate of one ounce to two gallons, but I have not done so, having always used Duckham's " Adcoids." have not troubled to separately test the rectifier and Redex, but if any owner is prepared to adopt both these methods of increasing m.p.g., I suggest the Redex conversion first, followed by a test, and then the fitting of a rectifier, or two of course if the engine has two carburetters, followed by a further test. Before leaving lubrication I must refer to the suspension. Greasing of the spring shackles, of course, is dealt with during the periodical maintenance, but I refer now to the springs. The suspension on the early Rileys is fairly harsh, and unlessthe springs are kept well oiled a very hard ride will result with much body shaking. A considerable amount of mud and water is thrown up on to the rear springs and I recommend the fitting of gaiters. The front springs do net suffer in this way and gaiters are not necessary and a good painting of old engine oil will last a reasonable time. Before fitting the gaiters I well scrubbed the springs using an old tooth brush and paraffin, drying them with newspaper. I then sprayed them with penetrating oil, followed by painting with old engine oil. Finally they were liberally coated with grease. This treatment of both front and rear springs has proved very ,satisfactory. The car feels nicely flexible on uneven surfaces and I think I have obtained as good a ride as is possible on a Riley of this year. The suspension will be further improved if the spring clips are kept tight
and the tubes through which the bolts pass
permitted to revolve slightly on the springs. These tubes touch the top
of the springs and should revolve when the springs flex. If the tubes
are allowed to become seized on the bolts, they will rub on the springs
and eventually there will be clearances between tubes and springs which
will give rise to chattering of the spring leaves. These tubes should,
therefore, be examined for any flats and renewed if necessary and kept
lubricated and free on their bolts. It should not be necessary to say
that it is important to remember the shock-absorbers, but I did hear of'
one owner recently who did not know where they were on his car ! Good
results from regular lubrication of the springs and shackles cannot be
obtained if the shock-absorbers are neglected to the extent that the
owner does not know whether they are functioning or not. Luvax hydraulic
shock-absorbers are fitted to the 1935 Riley and normally they do not
need ninth attention. Occasional topping up and adjustment is all that
is recommended. This LuVax is of the vane-type and removal of the plug
on the top of the unit permits of topping up with the correct oil. The
level of oil should not. be higher than in. from the top, it being
essential to leave this air space, otherwise damage necessitating a new
unit will be the eventual result. On removing the plug on the top of the
unit the owner will notice the regulating screw. This should be turned
to the right to increase damping action and to the left to decrease it.
This screw provides a very fine adjustment and a quarter of a turn is
sufficient, the car being tested on the road before any further
alteration. At one time I toyed with the idea of removing the front
unitS and substituting Hartford friction-type shock-absorbers, and if
any owner is contemplating such a change and is on the look-out for a
secondhand pair the makers recommend Type 502 M. and point out that it
is essential that the length of the short arm from centre to centre must
be 5 in. and 7 in. for the long arm. Any other Measurement for these
arms will render the shock-absorbers useless.
The standard tyre size is 4.50 on 19 in. wheels and the makers
recommend a pressure of 34 lb./sq. in. laden and 32 lb./ sq. in. with
unladen rear seats, although I prefer 32 and 30, respectively.As already mentioned I have an Armstrong preselector gearbox and owners who like doing their Own repairs may wonder whether they can carry out any adjusnlien Is which may become necessary front time to time. This is possible and well within the capacity of the type of owner likely to tackle such work. It is not possible here to set out the instructions, but were it so I could not hope to set out half as well as Riley Motors, Ltd., do in an illustrated leaflet which I obtained free from their Service Department at Abingdon-on-Thames, and I hope they will not mind may mentioning this fact and will be able to supply any reader who might write for a copy. At thus point 1 should like to express my thanks to the Service Department for the help they have given to Inc in the past. I have never hesitated to write to them on any problem connected with the car and I have always found them willing and anxious to help.
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